Tag Archive for 'Kaffe Fassett'

13 DRESSES : DRESS 9

Dress 9

Dress 9
Stylish Dress Book (available at the workroom)
Dress ‘F’ : Kaffe Fassett ‘Red Lotus’

The Stylish Dress Book is definitely my favourite Japanese dress pattern book so far. Almost all of the dresses in this book are super sweet looking – all in that Japanese smock aesthetic that I’m not totally convinced translates into the real world. I’m game to try it out though and so far I like it. The cool thing is that these dresses never have zippers and the construction is super simple.

I started working on this dress a few months ago. Most of these books come with a sheet or two at the back where all the patterns (sometimes 20 or more) are printed over top of each other. It definitely takes a keen eye to locate your pattern pieces, but usually they are numbered or lettered. What’s interesting is that you begin to realize the all the dresses are based on just four main templates with slight variations in sleeves, necklines, and silhouettes. I traced out my chosen pattern and headed on to cutting out fabric, serging and sewing it all together. Everything was going swimmingly until I attached the sleeves. Suddenly the dress didn’t fit in the shoulders and the sleeves didn’t have the proper fullness and ease I would expect. I thought that I had chosen a size too small. I figured I would try to re-draft a new sleeve pattern to compensate and perhaps add some fabric to the shoulders.

Dress 9

The project was put aside until I read this posting on The Purl Bee about Japanese patterns. Guess what? Most Japanese dress patterns don’t include seam allowance! If you’ve been following along, you’ll know that this is not my first seam allowance debacle. Once I read that, I knew exactly what went wrong with this dress. I re-examined the fit and tried to figure out if there was a was to fix the problem. I was heartbroken once again, but decided to abandon the sleeves. I got out my trusty bias tape maker and made some bias tape to finish the armholes and called it a day on dress 9.

I think I’ll try this pattern again one day because the sleeves are so incredibly cute. It actually is the perfect shift dress and that Lotus print is happy-making. All’s well that ends well.

I promise, no more accidental sleeveless dresses.

There’s a great on-going series at Label-Free on Japanese Craft Books. There are even translations of some of the common symbols that is very helpful. Thanks Anabela for the tip.

The Golden Yard has started a worldwide google map of fabric stores. It’s a collaborative project and anyone can add their favourite fabric stores to the map. It’s a great resource for when you’re traveling to new cities. {via True Up}

Dress 9, originally uploaded by the workroom.

Share

13 DRESSES : DRESS 7 & 8

Dress #7, originally uploaded by the workroom.

Dress 7 – Burda E971 Tunic
Fabric - Grey Asha by Kaffe Fasset

This tunic dress is a free download from the Burda Fashion website. If you’ve never downloaded a pattern off the internet, it usually means that the pattern has been tiled over many pages. Be prepared to print off 30+ sheets of paper and then have to tape them all together. I found this to be one of the few perks of working in an office, the endless supply of paper and high quality printers to facilitate such projects

I was very excited about this dress. I taped the pattern together, cut it out, then cut out my fabric and started to read the instructions. OOPS! I quickly found out that the pattern did NOT include the seam allowance. I talk about this all the time in my classes, always check your seam allowance on a pattern. I had heard that some patterns don’t include it, but to be honest, I had never encountered it. It’s not just an urban sewing myth, they do exist!

The tunic dress is quite loose, so the biggest effect that not having the seam allowance made on this project was that it was impossible for me to put the sleeves in. There was just nothing at the shoulders for me to sew the sleeves onto. Thus, the dress turned into a sleeveless dress with bias trim around the armholes. The dress is still cute, but not exactly what I had planned.

Dress #8

Dress 8 – Burda E971 Tunic (round 2)
Fabric – Fresh Poppies by Amy Butler

I hope you don’t think that this is cheating, but I had to get this pattern right. I went back and added seam allowance on all the pattern pieces and started again. The second time around was pretty easy. I really loved the cute puff sleeves of the tunic. There’s a piece of elastic sewn into the sleeve cuff that makes those tiny gathers. It’s my favourite detail, I’m a sucker for gathering. I don’t often repeat the same pattern, but I’m happy that I did for this one, just for the sleeves.

There are some important lessons to be learned here. a) Always read through the instructions of your project before cutting out your fabric and embarking on a potentially heart breaking journey, b) a 1/2″ seam allowance doesn’t seem like a lot, but it has great impact on a garment and c) if something goes wrong, don’t fight it, just go with it and make the best of it. Mistakes are fantastic lessons and lead to unexpected discoveries. (or sleeveless dresses)

There’s only five more weeks until Labour Day and five more dresses to go….

Dress #8

Share

13 DRESSES : DRESS 1

In the spring, I made a little personal challenge with myself to make ten dresses by the end of the summer. There are a couple reasons for this challenge – 1. I love dresses and 2. I was finding that I was doing very little personal sewing, being so caught up in running the shop.

Looking in my closet this morning, I realized that I had made six dresses so far! With still two more months until Labour Day, I decided I should up the ante and go for thirteen. (this is my favourite number & the day of my birthday) I’ll be posting each dress, starting with the ones I’ve already finished. Wish me lucky thirteen!

Dress #1 – Amy Butler Lotus Tunic
Fabric – Kaffe Fassett Winding Floral in Pastel

This is the first Amy Butler pattern that I’ve attempted to make. I found her directions to be quite clear and easy to follow. Amy suggests using a contrasting fabric for the upper bodice pieces and bias trim. I decided to stick with just one fabric. This William Morris-inspired print is so stunning that I wanted it to get all the attention. The pattern also calls for belt loops in the side of the tunic and a belt. I tend to avoid belts and I really like the look of the girl on the cover of the pattern. (They have styled it with the belt tied in the back, which is another option)

The only other adjustment that I made was to make the back darts bigger, to cinch the waist in more. I have a very curved back, so I make this adjustment a lot. Other than that, the fit of the dress is amazing.

I wasn’t planning on doing the lining. You can use the facing pieces from the tunic top instead. This is what Dory did with her dress. At the last minute I changed my mind and decided to do a solid Lilac cotton lining. I’m really happy that I did. The dress feels very finished & proper with the lining. The sleeve detailing is my absolute favourite part.

Already I’ve been spotted wearing it on multiple occasions by certain people. Yes, it’s THAT dress, the one you wear because it requires no thinking in the morning and you know you’ll look good.

Amy Butler Lotus dress

Share