Archive for the 'stitchery' Category

LINDEN SWEATSHIRT : MANNING LIBERTY

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

Grainline Studio : Linden Sweatshirt
Liberty of London : Manning Linford Fleece

This is my third Linden. Linden #1 is here.

One of the things that I love about the Linden is that it comes together quite quickly. When I feel like I want to sew something but don’t have a lot of time, the Linden does the trick. I get the satisfaction of sewing something from start to finish and I also get to add another sweatshirt to my collection. Win. Win.

Now that I know the fit is perfect, as I’m sewing the Linden together I like to twin needle stitch each seam. It takes a little extra time, but I love the way this detail looks.

Don’t forget! If you’re making self ribbing from the Liberty Fleece, you want to cut it on the bias.

Has anyone made any modifications to this pattern? I think I’m ready to experiment…

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

Linden Sweatshirt in Manning

GRAINLINE STUDIO ALDER : NANI IRO

Grainline Studio Alder : nani IRO

Grainline Studio : Alder Shirtdress
nani IRO Double Gauze : Green Pierre Pocho

I haven’t done a lot of sewing this year.  My mind seems to be elsewhere these days, but I’m hoping that’s going to change soon. I think I just need to get some ducks in a row before I get back my sewing mojo. I can at least say that I’ve finally made an Alder shirtdress.

I made this just before my trip to London with Lizzy & Katherine. Officially, it was finished in London. Those buttons got sewn on in our Islington Flat. The trip was so quick, that I didn’t have time for a London photoshoot, so here we are again in my usual spot! (back stairs of the workroom)

I didn’t make any changes to this pattern and it fits really well. I love clothing with double gauze, especially in nani IRO.  I will say that making technical garments with double gauze is a bit of a challenge. It’s tricky to do things like tiny hems and collar stands to the level that I expect of myself, but nonetheless everything turned out pretty great. I will never stop making clothes with double gauze. It’s just important to remember the qualities and limitations of the material you’re working with. I am definitely planning to make my next version out of Liberty of London. I’m looking forward to re-sewing this pattern with that crisp tana lawn. Two modifications that I’ll be making with my next Alder will be adding some short sleeves (from the Grainline Archer Shirt) and adding a bit of length to the overall hem.  I found this version to be a bit short on the side seams to wear on it’s own. Probably 2-3 inches should do it.

I’ve had such great luck with Grainline Studio patterns. Now that the Tiny Pocket Tank is in print, it’s next on my hit list.

Grainline Studio Alder : nani IRO

Grainline Studio Alder : nani IRO

Grainline Studio Alder : nani IRO

Grainline Studio Alder : nani IRO

STYLISH DRESS BOOK ‘B’ : NANI IRO

Stylish Dress Book 'B' : nani IRO

Stylish Dress Book : Tunic ‘B’
nani IRO Neon Mountain View Double Gauze Cotton

I just realized it’s been a really long time since we’ve had nani IRO at the workroom. I’ll try not to let that happen again. This fabric just makes people happy.

It seems to be a tradition of mine to make this particular pattern from nani IRO. The very first version I made was exactly SIX years ago!

I love this simple top, it’s so easy to wear and incredibly comfortable. My favourite detail is definitely the sleeves. I love a puffy sleeve! I really like how this sleeve is two parts. If you’re making this pattern from the untranslated version of Stylish Dress Book, this can be the one tricky part. When you’re tracing out the pattern piece for the lower sleeve, you need to add in 10 cm to the width of the piece to add the fullness.

This collection has so many fun pops of neon, perfect for the coming winter months when things get very grey. I always find myself choosing brighter prints when the days get shorter. There is more nani IRO on the way for the new year, it’ll be a good mid winter pick me up!

I also made a pair of nani IRO pants using the 101 Trouser pant pattern. It’s already too cold to wear them, but I’ll try to get in some photos of them soon.

p.s. I ironed this top twice before taking these photos, but double gauze is wrinkly & comfy like that.

Stylish Dress Book 'B' : nani IRO

Stylish Dress Book 'B' : nani IRO

Stylish Dress Book 'B' : nani IRO

Stylish Dress Book 'B' : nani IRO

CAMBER SET TEE : CHAMBRAY UNION

Camber Set Tee : Chambray

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Tee
Chambray Union Stretch
Liberty of London Stanley for the yoke lining and neck binding

Here’s my very first Camber Set Tee. For this version, I added a few inches to the length. I’m so used to tunic style tops that I automatically think I want a top to be longer. I wore it that way for a few months, but the funny thing is that I recently chopped off about 5 or 6 inches. I wanted to wear it with a skirt one day and I didn’t have any short tops that sit closer to the waistline. This is the luxury of sewing. When your personal style changes, you can change the garment the match.

One detail on the Camber that I like is the opportunity to use a contrast yoke lining and neck binding. I used some Liberty of London Stanley, which no one will ever see, but always makes me smile. Especially since this Camber appears to be so plain. Sewing secret details makes me happy.

The Chambray Union Stretch is so perfect for a woven tee pattern. Super comfy with a slightly weighty feel. The more I look at these photos, the more I want to make a few more chambray tees. (of varying lengths!)

Check out my printed Camber Set Tee here.
We have all the Merchant & Mills patterns at the workroom!

Camber Set Tee : Chambray

Camber Set Tee : Chambray

Camber Set Tee : Chambray

MERCHANT & MILLS CAMBER SET

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Tee

Before I get into this post, I just wanted to say Thank you! to everyone who visited and commented on my Fancy Sailor Top. I hope you all will get to make your own version of this fun pattern! I used the Random Number Generator to choose the winner of the pdf version of the pattern and Rhiannon is the lucky winner! The sweet ladies at Fancy Tiger will be emailing Rhiannon with her prize pdf.

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Tee
Unknown printed fabric

I’m posting this project out of order, as it is actually my second version of the Camber Set Tee. I’ll post my first version next.

This is one of those rare occasions where I don’t know the designer of this fabric. I was given a box of scrap fabric and this was amongst the scraps. Clearly this was not your average box of scraps (the majority of the fabric was Liberty of London, so it was more like a box of TREASURE), as there were just enough ‘scraps’ to cut out this entire pattern with a bit of fabric to spare. I don’t recognize this as a Liberty print, but the fabric is a similar weight to Tana Lawn. It’s lovely and I knew I wanted to try to make a little top of it. If anyone recognizes this print, please let me know!

I love the shape of this Tee. It’s really feminine with a bust dart, back yoke detail and the way it nips in above the waist. It fit me really well, but I’ve found with the Merchant & Mills patterns that I usually will take in the side seams just a bit to get a tighter fit. That’s just what I prefer and it’s an easy adjustment. Comparing the Scout Tee and the Camber, I find this pattern to be a bit more formal or dressy. The neckline is higher for the Camber and the sleeves just a bit longer. They are both wardrobe staples for sure!

I would love to make a dress version of the Camber, but I’m waiting for just the right fabric to show up. I’m pretty sure my next trip to Sultan’s will solve that problem. In the meantime, the Tee version gives maximum satisfaction for a quick and cute project.

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Tee

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Tee

Merchant & Mills Camber Set Tee

 

FANCY TIGER SAILOR TOP + GIVEAWAY

Fancy Tiger : Sailor Top

Fancy Tiger Sailor Top
Cotton + Steel ‘Truly Outrageous Gems’ Lawn from the Moonlit collection
by Rashida Coleman-Hale
Botanica Tinctoria Grey Cotton Lace Trim

Welcome to the third stop on the Sailor Top Blog Tour! I was so honoured to be asked to join in to show off this cute new pattern.

I first met the Fancy Tiger girls, Amber & Jaime at the Makerie retreat in Boulder, a few years ago. Their super cute shop in Denver is a must-see if you are ever out that way. I’ve loved following their adventures online ever since and was very excited to see that they were publishing their first sewing pattern.

When I got the pattern I knew I had to pick out one of the new Cotton + Steel cotton lawns and the grey Truly Outrageous Gems couldn’t have been more perfect (Grey + Gems!). I also decided to add a cute lace trim detail with the new Botanica Tinctoria Eyelet Lace.

The Sailor Top is super fun and easy to sew. I was able to sew it up in just one night. The instructions are very clear, so it’s a good project for a beginner and a breeze for an experienced sewer. Finishing details are always important to me and this top is beautifully finished. The sleeves are raglan, which are simple to sew on and they finish with a nice wide facing. I also love the pretty neckline. It has the perfect amount of gathers finished with a simple yoke. The pattern allows for a deep hem which I always love the look of. Once I hemmed the top according to the directions, I just stitched on my eyelet trim on the inside of the hem. I debated adding trim to the sleeve hems, but decided to keep it simple, knowing I can always add it on later if I change my mind. The Botanica Tinctoria trims are naturally dyed so the colour palette to choose from is super soft and pretty. I have to remember to use more trim in my projects, it adds such a nice detail.

The Sailor Top fits me really well. I found the underarm seam to be a bit tight fitting, so I just clipped notches into the seam allowance to release the tension and it’s much better now. Another alternative would be to trim down the seam allowance.

I can see lots more of these cute tops making their way into my wardrobe! Most likely a nani IRO one next!

Would you like to win a PDF copy of this pattern?! Just leave a comment below before November 1st Midnight EST. I’ll choose someone randomly.

Visit the rest of the blog tour to see all the other Fancy Sailor Tops in action!
Monday, October 27th – A Verb for Keeping Warm
Tuesday, October 28th – Miss Make
Wednesday, October 29th – the workroom/Make Something
Thursday, October 30th – Sew Bon
Friday, October 31st – Very Shannon

Botanica Tinctoria : Lace Trim

Fancy Tiger : Sailor Top

Fancy Tiger : Sailor Top

Fancy Tiger : Sailor Top

Fancy Tiger : Sailor Top

Fancy Tiger : Sailor Top

MCCALLS 6696 : CHAMBRAY UNION

McCall's 6696 : Chambray Union

McCalls 6696
Robert Kaufman : Chambray Union

I’m a sucker for a full skirt (especially with pockets!). Add that to a shirt dress and throw in some chambray and I’m in heaven. The Robert Kaufman Chambray Union collection has seriously infiltrated my wardrobe this year. I can’t help but want to make all the things with it. I keep re-ordering it for the shop and it keeps selling out. It’s just perfect for everything.

I’m pretty sure it was Johanna who pointed out this particular McCalls pattern to me last year and then ended up getting a hold of a copy for me. Thank you J!

There are so many great details on this dress. I really like the waistband and the gathered back detail. For the buttons, I decided to do covered buttons with the same fabric. Covered buttons are so easy to do and give such a polished look. I used Liberty Stanley for the little bits of bias binding on the arms and the pocket fabric. It makes me smile to see those bits.

The pattern was great to sew and fit me without any adjusting. I chose to do the sleeveless version, but there is a short sleeve option that I’m going to try next. I’m pretty sure I need a Liberty version of this pattern!

McCall's 6696 : Chambray Union

McCall's 6696 : Chambray Union

McCall's 6696 : Chambray Union

McCall's 6696 : Chambray Union

McCall's 6696 : Chambray Union

NOODLEHEAD CARGO DUFFLE BAGS

Cargo Duffle Bags for Sandra & Ryan

Cargo Duffle Bag by Anna Graham of Noodlehead (free pattern! from Robert Kaufman)
Main fabrics are Robert Kaufman Essex Yarn Dyed Linen in Navy & Black
Pockets, handles and interior lining are four different prints from the Indelible collection by Katarina Roccella

It’s been on my mind to try Anna’s Cargo Duffle Bag for a while. I love the shape, the exterior pockets and the contrasting fabric options. When I started to think of a wedding gift for my cousin, Sandra and her future husband, Ryan, it occurred to me that a pair of weekend travel bags was just the right thing. They spend a lot of time at the cottage in the summer, so I’m hoping these bags will get lots of use in all their future travels together.

I read through the pattern after printing it out and decided to make 2 little changes. I adjusted the pattern to be slightly wider. I followed the dimensions that Coconut Robot used for her version. I was really happy with the final shape, a bit more boxy than narrow. The other change I did was to add a lining. The pattern calls for denim or canvas that ends up being the lining, but I really wanted to have some fun printed fabric on the inside. Lots of people have also done this, but I went about it in a different way. Most people sew the lining separately together and then insert the lining into the bag at the end. I decided to try just adding the lining layer on top of the lining canvas and quilting it or basting it to the bag pieces as I went along. At the end, I just needed to bind all the inside seams. With the other method, you won’t need binding because the lining covers all the seams. My way was probably  more work, but I was happy with how it turned out. I would be up for trying the other way with the lining the next time I do this pattern.

I’ve made a good many bags but somehow this is my first Noodlehead bag! That seems kinda silly since her bags are so incredible and Anna is such a sweetheart. I have a feeling there will be more and more Noodlehead bags sewn up over here. I started a Roadtrip Case a few months ago that I need to finish up. I’m also eyeing the Poolside Tote and the Divided Basket patterns. I found the instructions to be very clear and easy to follow. Making two bags at once gave me lots of practice to figure out the best way to approach each step. I especially love how the quilting of the pieces really makes the bags more sturdy and structured.

Sandra & Ryan got married last weekend. It was such a lovely weekend being with all my family and cousins. The perfect end was watching the two of them open up their duffle bags at their wedding brunch the day after.

Cargo Duffle Bags for Sandra & Ryan

Cargo Duffle Bags for Sandra & Ryan

Cargo Duffle Bags for Sandra & Ryan

Cargo Duffle Bags for Sandra & Ryan

DRAPE DRAPE 2 : SHIBORI INDIGO DRESS

Drape Drape 2 : Indigo Dyed Bamboo Jersey

Drape Drape 2 : Dress 2
Shibori Indigo Over-Dyed Bamboo Jersey in Putty
Fabric dyed in the workroom’s Indigo class

Natural dyeing fabric is always exciting.  Indigo dyeing is extra magical because it is done in a fermentation vat and the colour appears when the fibre is removed from the vat and oxygen hits it. You literally see the colour change and appear as it is exposed to the air. I was hoping that our Bamboo Knit Jersey would work with Indigo and I was super excited to find out that it takes the dye perfectly.

I had originally wanted to make some Indigo dyed leggings, but I couldn’t resist looking for a dress pattern when I saw how beautiful the large piece of Bamboo looked with the Indigo overdyed on it.

With the success of my Bamboo Jersey Moneta, I was feeling ready to tackle some of the more simple patterns from my Drape Drape 2 book. The second dress in the book couldn’t be more easy! The pattern is cut from just a single piece of fabric with only two seams to sew. I did those seams on my serger and used my Maxilock Stretch Thread. I’m addicted to using this thread on my knit projects. I finished the neck line and arm holes with bias jersey binding and used my twin needle to top stitch the binding down. The book recommends just folding and hemming the armholes, but I prefer a bound finish. I also used my twin needle to hem the dress. (Regular thread through the needles and Maxilock Stretch Thread in my bobbin)

This is such a fun dress to sew and to wear. It’s really comfortable and looks more advanced than it really is.

Now that the workroom has all the Drape Drape books in English, I’m scouting for my next pattern. I know the idea of sewing with knits is a bit daunting, but once you get started you won’t want to stop!

Drape Drape 2 : Indigo Dyed Bamboo Jersey

Drape Drape 2 : Indigo Dyed Bamboo Jersey

Drape Drape 2 : Indigo Dyed Bamboo Jersey

Drape Drape 2 : Indigo Dyed Bamboo Jersey

Drape Drape 2 : Indigo Dyed Bamboo Jersey

DARK GREY COLETTE MONETA

Colette : Grey Moneta Dress

Colette Patterns : Moneta Dress
Dark Grey Bamboo Jersey

When Lizzy House was here, we did very little sewing. Unlike last year when The Sewing Factory ran for a week straight. We did manage to make Monetas together. This was the perfect project, if we had to choose just one.

Our first step was to analyze everyone else’s version. This is a valuable step! We wanted to find out what problems people had with the pattern so that we could avoid them. There were two things we found. A lot of people complained about excess fabric under the arm. The other issue people talked about was the method used to add the clear elastic at the waistband.

When we opened up the pattern we saw right away that the side seam extended too far out when it came up under the arm. We simply straightened out that line by bringing it in about 1/2″.

For the clear elastic. We did not follow the pattern directions! I’ve heard so many people complain about the results they got by trying to stretch and sew the elastic into the skirt at the same time. We used the traditional method. We basted the skirt first with a long stitch on the sewing machine. We then gathered the skirt by hand. Then we just serged the clear elastic in place. One note about the elastic. The pattern calls for 1/4″ clear elastic, which is impossible to find. We used 3/8″ clear elastic that we just trimmed down to the right width before serging it in place.

For my version I chose to do the short sleeve with no collar. I lined the bodice with the same jersey as the rest of the dress and I really like the weight of it. I will definitely do that again for my next versions. We also used a different pocket. Lizzy had a great pocket pattern that attached to the waistband rather than the side seam, which seems much more stable on a knit dress.

To put the dress together we used a serger with Maxi-lock Stretch thread and Stretch 90 needles. I’m addicted to Maxi-lock Stretch thread for sewing with knits. I did a bit of testing and it definitely makes the seams more stretchy than regular serger thread. It also is super soft and gives nice coverage over the seam. Using a serger, the dress comes together really quickly. Both Lizzy and I made our dresses in one night sharing a serger and sewing machine. For all the hemming we used a stretch twin needle on my sewing machine. For this part we used the stretch thread in the bobbin and regular thread in the top.

The bamboo jersey is incredibly soft. Wearing this dress feels amazing and you never want to take it off. Probably the best thing to do is just make 6 more so that I can just have one for every day of the week. You can see Lizzy & I wearing our Monetas together here.

p.s. The next night Lizzy made a second version using fabric that she hand dyed in our Indigo class. It’s one of the best things I’ve ever seen.

Colette : Grey Moneta Dress

Colette : Grey Moneta Dress

Colette : Grey Moneta Dress

Colette : Grey Moneta Dress