Colette Patterns : Moneta Dress
Dark Grey Bamboo Jersey
When Lizzy House was here, we did very little sewing. Unlike last year when The Sewing Factory ran for a week straight. We did manage to make Monetas together. This was the perfect project, if we had to choose just one.
Our first step was to analyze everyone else’s version. This is a valuable step! We wanted to find out what problems people had with the pattern so that we could avoid them. There were two things we found. A lot of people complained about excess fabric under the arm. The other issue people talked about was the method used to add the clear elastic at the waistband.
When we opened up the pattern we saw right away that the side seam extended too far out when it came up under the arm. We simply straightened out that line by bringing it in about 1/2″.
For the clear elastic. We did not follow the pattern directions! I’ve heard so many people complain about the results they got by trying to stretch and sew the elastic into the skirt at the same time. We used the traditional method. We basted the skirt first with a long stitch on the sewing machine. We then gathered the skirt by hand. Then we just serged the clear elastic in place. One note about the elastic. The pattern calls for 1/4″ clear elastic, which is impossible to find. We used 3/8″ clear elastic that we just trimmed down to the right width before serging it in place.
For my version I chose to do the short sleeve with no collar. I lined the bodice with the same jersey as the rest of the dress and I really like the weight of it. I will definitely do that again for my next versions. We also used a different pocket. Lizzy had a great pocket pattern that attached to the waistband rather than the side seam, which seems much more stable on a knit dress.
To put the dress together we used a serger with Maxi-lock Stretch thread and Stretch 90 needles. I’m addicted to Maxi-lock Stretch thread for sewing with knits. I did a bit of testing and it definitely makes the seams more stretchy than regular serger thread. It also is super soft and gives nice coverage over the seam. Using a serger, the dress comes together really quickly. Both Lizzy and I made our dresses in one night sharing a serger and sewing machine. For all the hemming we used a stretch twin needle on my sewing machine. For this part we used the stretch thread in the bobbin and regular thread in the top.
The bamboo jersey is incredibly soft. Wearing this dress feels amazing and you never want to take it off. Probably the best thing to do is just make 6 more so that I can just have one for every day of the week. You can see Lizzy & I wearing our Monetas together here.
p.s. The next night Lizzy made a second version using fabric that she hand dyed in our Indigo class. It’s one of the best things I’ve ever seen.
Hi friends! It seems I took a little unexpected, but much needed hiatus. How have you been?
Yesterday was my favourite kind of fall day. When I left the house early in the morning, I was chilly and bundled up in a sweater. By the afternoon, it was hot and sunny. I took Maisy to High Park and as we walked through the forest, I realized that I hadn’t told you about the t-shirt I was wearing. It’s the first t-shirt I’ve sewn and I made in it our T-Shirt class. I’m still pretty new to sewing with knit fabrics, so I was thrilled to learn to make myself a perfect fitting tee completely on a serger. (Actually, we also use a cover stitch machine in this class, as well!) There are several different neckline and sleeve length options to choose from with this pattern. I combined the v-neck and the jewel neck to make a deeper scoop neck which I quite like. The fabric is a blue jersey I already had, but my next tee will definitely be made out of bamboo jersey. Now that I’ve got this pattern, I’m pretty set with all the basics. (Underwear + Tees) I’m going to draw the line at making my own jeans, but I’ve got a hankering to try making a pair of shoes one day.
I’m also sporting my new sunglasses (on sale from Anthropologie) in these photos. I went to New York City a couple weeks ago for the weekend. I have some fun photos to organize and post up for you.
I hope you don’t mind, but I wanted to show you my new homemade underwear. I have been collecting pretty elastic trims from Mokuba in anticipation of creating a new collection of cute undies for myself. These two pairs were made using the same patterns we use in the Underwear class. They are the most comfortable underwear I own. Not only because the fit is amazing but because this organic knit bamboo is so soft and lovely.
Making these two pairs hardly depleted my trim stash, so next up I want to knock off some undies I already own and create my own patterns. Next Monday I hope to schedule in a whole day just devoted to this project.
Amy of Angry Chicken is all about making her own underwear too, so I’m not the only one!
The term, ‘homemade underwear’, probably doesn’t conjure up a very flattering image. In fact, I just read an old news piece about Cate Blanchett giving up her dowdy homemade underwear. (made by her mom!) I have to admit that I’m impressed with my first attempts at making knickers. I think they’re quite cute and certainly not daggy.
My first pair was the Brazilian hipster in stretch lace. These next two are made from organic knit bamboo fabric. The fabric is amazingly soft. I’ve been wanting to start bringing in more organic and alternative fabrics to the workroom. We now have the organic knit bamboo in three colours – black, grey and this minky brown. For the trim, I just bought some inexpensive elastics at DFO. I’ll venture out to Mokuba and Sussman’s for my next pairs. A few of the other girls in the class had gotten some lovely trims there.
These are the low cut versions of the hipster (with frilly purple trim) and the bikini (with lavender scalloped elastic). I prefer the hipster, though both fit really well and are quite comfortable. The pattern also comes with a camisole which I’ve already got cut out in the bamboo and just need to sew up this week.
I’ve been scrutinizing my store bought undies, checking out they way they are constructed and how the trims are attached. Now that I’ve learned the basics from the underwear class, I’ve got tons of other ideas that I want to experiment with. The amazing thing about unlocking the mystery of making something is that you often find out that it’s not that hard and suddenly you’re proudly wearing homemade underwear!
Barack Obama was just sworn in as president. It’s a liberating day all around.