Grainline Studio : Alder Shirtdress
nani IRO Double Gauze : Green Pierre Pocho
I haven’t done a lot of sewing this year. My mind seems to be elsewhere these days, but I’m hoping that’s going to change soon. I think I just need to get some ducks in a row before I get back my sewing mojo. I can at least say that I’ve finally made an Alder shirtdress.
I made this just before my trip to London with Lizzy & Katherine. Officially, it was finished in London. Those buttons got sewn on in our Islington Flat. The trip was so quick, that I didn’t have time for a London photoshoot, so here we are again in my usual spot! (back stairs of the workroom)
I didn’t make any changes to this pattern and it fits really well. I love clothing with double gauze, especially in nani IRO. I will say that making technical garments with double gauze is a bit of a challenge. It’s tricky to do things like tiny hems and collar stands to the level that I expect of myself, but nonetheless everything turned out pretty great. I will never stop making clothes with double gauze. It’s just important to remember the qualities and limitations of the material you’re working with. I am definitely planning to make my next version out of Liberty of London. I’m looking forward to re-sewing this pattern with that crisp tana lawn. Two modifications that I’ll be making with my next Alder will be adding some short sleeves (from the Grainline Archer Shirt) and adding a bit of length to the overall hem. I found this version to be a bit short on the side seams to wear on it’s own. Probably 2-3 inches should do it.
I’ve had such great luck with Grainline Studio patterns. Now that the Tiny Pocket Tank is in print, it’s next on my hit list.
Stylish Dress Book : Tunic ‘B’
nani IRO Neon Mountain View Double Gauze Cotton
I just realized it’s been a really long time since we’ve had nani IRO at the workroom. I’ll try not to let that happen again. This fabric just makes people happy.
It seems to be a tradition of mine to make this particular pattern from nani IRO. The very first version I made was exactly SIX years ago!
I love this simple top, it’s so easy to wear and incredibly comfortable. My favourite detail is definitely the sleeves. I love a puffy sleeve! I really like how this sleeve is two parts. If you’re making this pattern from the untranslated version of Stylish Dress Book, this can be the one tricky part. When you’re tracing out the pattern piece for the lower sleeve, you need to add in 10 cm to the width of the piece to add the fullness.
This collection has so many fun pops of neon, perfect for the coming winter months when things get very grey. I always find myself choosing brighter prints when the days get shorter. There is more nani IRO on the way for the new year, it’ll be a good mid winter pick me up!
I also made a pair of nani IRO pants using the 101 Trouser pant pattern. It’s already too cold to wear them, but I’ll try to get in some photos of them soon.
p.s. I ironed this top twice before taking these photos, but double gauze is wrinkly & comfy like that.
Simplicity 2215 Skirt Pattern
nani IRO canvas
photos taken at the NH Excelsior Hotel in Siena, Italy
Our trip to Italy was almost a month ago now and I’ve yet to post any photos from my DSLR. There are SO MANY! I really just need to spend one entire day going through and editing them before too much time passes by. I thought I’d post up some smaller bits to start.
This simplicity skirt pattern is one of my favourites! I have a few other pieces of fabric set aside to make this pattern in again. I just can’t resist the uneven pleats and the pockets.
This fabric might look familiar. Yes, it’s true. I already have a Birdie Sling in this same nani IRO fabric, but I really love it and felt like I also needed to make a piece of clothing with it. I laid out the pattern so that the hem of the skirt is actually the selvedge of the fabric so that I could include all the lovely text and the fringe.
Siena was one of my favourite parts of our trip. I promise more photos of the actual city soon!
I’m a bit embarrassed. I just looked to see how long ago it was that I made my last Birdie Sling Bag and it was just about two years ago. This is mostly embarrassing if you could see the state that the bag is in right now. The handle has almost disintegrated for starters and it’s rather faded and quite dirty. I use my Birdie Sling every day, I can’t seem to live without it. I’m a little surprised it’s taken me this long to make a replacement Birdie, but I’m rather picky about my fabric choices for this bag.
I have yet to show you, but I made a pretty skirt out of this same nani IRO fabric. The more I looked at it, the more I thought it would be an awesome Birdie Sling. For the last few months I’ve had a piece just waiting to find it’s matching handle & lining fabrics. With all the fabric coming through the doors of the workroom right now, I can’t believe I didn’t find a match sooner.
Sunday afternoon, I had a sewing date with Katherine who announced she was making a Birdie Sling for our upcoming trip to Italy. Drat! I wanted to make one too. I had no choice but to shop my stash at home and find something that would work. I ending up deciding to just use a stripe fabric I got at Sultan’s Fine Fabrics (meant for a dress) as just the bands and using the same nani IRO print for both the body of the bag and the handle. For the lining, I used a Japanese fabric I bought at Fancy Tiger when we went to the Makerie.
I always add an inside zippered pocket to my Birdie Slings. I like to have a secure area. Especially when traveling. Check out our Birdie Sling class photos for more inspiration.
Katherine & I are headed to Italy to go to Squam Italia. We’re going early to tour around since neither of us has been there before. If anyone out there has any favourite places to stay, eat, drink, shop, buy fabric, taste wine or anything we shouldn’t miss – we’d love your suggestions. We’re flying into Rome, then heading North to Siena, then Florence, then over to the east coast to a small town called Morro D’Oro for Squam. We leave on Monday. EEK!!!
Wiksten Tova Sewing Pattern
Nani IRO brushed flannel polka dot
Photographed at the Johnson Bank Parking Garage, Madison WI
It’s pretty darn hot in Madison. Definitely too hot right now for this flannel version of the Tova. But I’ve worn this top several times in cooler weather and it’s perfectly cozy. This is the first time I’ve worked with nani IRO flannel for clothing. I made a quick scarf a few months ago, pairing the flannel with a solid voile. It’s so lovely! Super lightweight and soft. It’s hard to see but the polka dots on the fabric actually have a bit of glitter on them. We sold out of this shipment quite quickly, but we’re expecting more nani IRO in the next few weeks.
I love how this shirt fits. I love the bib yoke and the sleeves. I also always love the way that Jenny finishes her hems and cuffs. It’s true, I just can’t say enough good things about Wiksten patterns. Having tried so many, I just really notice the difference in quality which makes sewing these garments so much more fun.
My other Tova in Liberty is here. I also heart it a lot.
We got a shipment of nani IRO fabrics last week. It created quite a flurry! About half the shipment was gone within 48 hours of arriving. Wow. I’m placing another order this weekend and I’ll try to get even more this time.
As soon as I saw how quickly the fabric was going, I knew I had to think quickly to figure out a few projects for myself. I decided to try a Tova from the grey dot flannel and also a skirt from this navy painted canvas. I thought it would be fun to do a quick scarf from one of teal dot flannel and one of the solid voiles as the backing. Something with instant gratification and super cozy too!
I used the Anna Maria Horner Figure 8 Scarf tutorial. I used just a metre each of the flannel and voile. Anna Maria Horner’s pattern calls for an 18 x 79″ strip of fabric for each side, so I just cut two strips out of my metre and pieced them together to make the full length. The scarf came together in less than an hour and I totally love it! I made one change to the pattern by shortening it by about 6 inches. I wanted the scarf to wrap closer to my neck. If you’re making the scarf, you might want to test out the length before sewing the loop together to adjust it to your preference.
Best part is, I’m wearing my nani IRO right away.
Here’s a quick project that totally made my day on Friday. The inspiration came from this awesome nani IRO scarf.
I have some bits and pieces of nani IRO double gauze, some are too small to make clothing with but I can’t resist collecting this gorgeous fabric. I had one metre of the green Fuwari print that I knew would be just right for a scarf. I made a special trip to Mokuba in search of some pom pom trim, which is clearly an essential feature of this scarf. They didn’t have true pom pom trim, but I found this golden glittery pom-like trim that seemed kinda perfect for me.
Here’s a quick run down of how the scarf comes together. Square up the ends of your fabric and then cut the metre piece down the centre fold. You will now have two pieces that are about 22″ x 1 metre long. Sew those two pieces together. You will now have a piece that is 22″ x 2 metres long. Fold the fabric in half with good sides together, it will now be 11″ x 2 metres. If you’re planning on adding trim, cut an 11″ piece for either side and baste it in place on the inside of your folded fabric. The trim will be placed good side to the front side of your scarf. All the trim should be laying on the inside of your scarf ‘sandwich’, so that it will end up on the outside of your scarf, not the inside! Sew around the 3 open sides of your fabric, leaving a space of a few inches along the longer side so that you can turn the scarf inside out. You will need to hand or machine stitch this closed after. That’s it! Think of how many of these you can whip up in a night?!
It’s been cold here in Toronto, so I’ve been wearing my scarf inside, since I refuse to turn on the furnace just yet. The little glitter pom trim makes me incredibly happy and reminds me that a little bit of trim is always a good idea.
p.s. I hope you’re thinking the same thing…. This is a great (& simple) handmade gift idea!!
Colourful Fabric Dress Book (available at the workroom)
Tank Top : nani IRO ‘Pocho’
After I finished making Dress ‘W’ with the Pocho nani IRO, I looked at my leftover fabric and thought I could squeeze out a simple tank top. I remembered that there was a tank dress in the Colourful Fabric Dress Book. I just traced out the two top pieces for the dress.
I don’t know why I don’t make more tank tops! It is the perfect thing to do with leftover fabric. I think you’re going to see a lot more of them from me. I wanted to try a couple finishing details with this. I made facing pieces for the armholes, rather than do bias binding. Sometimes I just prefer a more elegant invisible finish. I also tried doing a silk bias binding on the neckline, with the raw edges facing out. I have a box full of beautiful shades of vintage silk charmeuse. A bit fancy for everyday, but so incredibly beautiful. I’ve been wanting to use them, so this is a good start. It’s a simple way to add a little bling to a basic piece.
I also made a matching silk tank top to wear underneath. I wanted this to also have raw edges, so I sewed the seams on the outside to emphasize this. I need to perfect this pattern a bit more before I show it to you, but it’s a good start for a layering piece.
The day I took these photos it was WAY too hot to be wearing jeans. Even today, the first day of September is going to be a scorcher. I’m a bit confused about what I should make next – a sleeveless summery dress or something more autumn appropriate.
Stylish Dress Book 3 (available at the workroom)
Dress ‘W’ : nani IRO ‘Pocho’
This nani IRO double gauze fabric was one of those bolts that arrived at the shop one morning and by the time the shop closed that night, it was all gone. I’ve ordered more, of course. These huge polka dots are just too cute!
I envisioned a dress made from this fabric with a little gathered sleeve, so I went back and pulled out my pattern for Dress ‘W’ from Stylish Dress book 3. Instead of cutting out a yoke, I just put the two front pattern pieces together and cut a single front bodice piece. The rest of the dress is pretty simple. For the pockets, I used a lovely tiny stars prints. I think it goes perfectly.
One detail that I’m really happy with is that if you look at the sleeves, the polka dot colours match on each side. Love!
This is the first dress that I’ve made of the double gauze, I’ve mostly made tops. The one thing I’ve noticed is that with the fabric being so soft, if I have anything heavy in my pocket (ie. my iPhone) then the side seams pulls down a bit. Nothing major, just something I’ll keep in mind for the future.
I had cut two metres of this fabric and after making the dress, there was a little bit left. I didn’t want any of it to go unused, so I was able to make something else with the leftovers. I’ll share that project with you tomorrow!
After the India Flint workshop, I was inspired to try doing a simple tie dye t-shirt. I used the super simple pattern from the nani IRO book, “Colourful Fabric Dress Book“. We have some lovely white organic cotton jersey at the workroom that was perfect for this project. I cut out the pieces (there are only 2!) for this project and wrapped some rubber bands around the sleeve area and the hem. I decided to forgo mordanting the fabric in order to get a softer result. The next time I dye this cotton jersey, I’ll try using milk as my mordant. (Awesome tip from India Flint!) I used a very exhausted logwood dye bath we’ve had at the shop for almost a year. Every time we do a Natural Dyeing class, I always get Julie to leave behind the logwood since I’m so in love with grey.
I absolutely love the soft dove grey colour of the jersey. I’m also really delighted with my tie dye experiment. I am definitely going to do more. I actually also tie dyed some other pieces of jersey at the same time to make a couple pairs of underwear.
The sewing for this project was merely four seams sewn on up on the serger. It couldn’t be any easier. I didn’t even do anything to finish the edges on the neckline, sleeves or hem. I thought of possibly doing some satin bias trim, but then I wanted to wear it right away. Maybe another day or perhaps I’ll save that for another project.