One Pattern, Many Ways : The Cuff Top
Learning through Repetition
One Pattern, Many Ways explores the magic that happens when you return to a favourite pattern. Familiarity builds confidence, and confidence makes room for curiosity. Each version can look completely different, becoming part of a personal, handmade wardrobe over time.
I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about and reviewing my handmade wardrobe this past year. In particular, I’ve noticed the patterns I return to again and again, and how they’ve slowly shaped my own version of a ‘uniform’ – pieces that feel easy to wear, but look unique at the same time.
This new series will highlight some of my favourite patterns and the many versions I’ve made of each one. I hope it encourages you to return to patterns you already know, and to notice the quiet opportunities for curiosity and change that come from staying with something familiar.
The Assembly Line Cuff Top is a popular pattern for a reason. It’s relatively simple to sew, works well with a variety of fabrics and looks great on everyone.
Here are the three versions I’ve made from this pattern.
The Toweling Version : This version was born from the desire to use a piece of Ruby Star Society Toweling as part of a garment. The Cuff Top pattern uses a centre seam as a design feature which inspired me to try to make the toweling work for this project. Unfortunately, the toweling is only 16″ wide and even undoing the hemmed edges did not gain enough width to span ‘half’ the front or back. Instead, I pieced the toweling to a piece of Merchant & Mills Nutmeg linen to create a larger piece of fabric. I then used this newly pieced fabric to cut out a version of the Cuff Top that did not include a centre seam. You can do this by simply removing the centre seam allowance and cutting your fabric on the fold. I also spent time pattern matching my stripes to run continuously across the shoulder seam.
The Frankie Citrus Version : This version uses a fun, neon bright Merchant & Mills linen called Frankie Citrus. For a single patterned fabric, I wouldn’t want to have a seam running down the front or back, so I simply removed the seam allowance on the front and back pieces, then cut the pattern on the fold.
For each version I’ve made, I’ve added a fun Kylie & the Machine woven label onto the neck facing piece.
The Jacquard Version : I’m currently looking for new ways to use the Merchant & Mills Cotton Jacquard, including leftovers from past projects. I got it into my head that The Cuff Top could be a fun way to use my leftover Jacquard and when I pulled out the pattern pieces, I had just enough of the Rushes Green to do one half of the front and enough of the Dauphine Pink to do the full back and half the front. What I didn’t know was – how would it work out?
The beauty of this project is that its a quick make compared to other patterns and having made it a few times already, I felt confident about sneaking it into my sewing queue.
Rather than use the bulky Jacquard for the neck facing, I opted to use some Essex Cotton/Linen instead. I also invisibly hand tacked the facing down on the inside to keep it from rolling up. Something I might go back and do on my previous versions.
I absolutely love how this version turned out. Which version of the three is your favourite? (See all three in action in this fun Reel)
I also host virtual workshops throughout the year, where we take this same slow, thoughtful approach to sewing and wardrobe building. The Cuff Top class is coming up in the new year, if you’d like to spend some time with this pattern alongside me.
